At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa has built his daywear silhouettes starting from the shoulders, giving them a particular strength. Slender suits, blouses with a double collar, precise geometric cuts and simplified anatomic inlays revisit the masculine appearance to give women comfort and confidence. Sheeny and mat fabrics can be mixed in the same look, just like felt and muslin also. The evening gowns are sometimes rich with pleats, their front always consists of a deep cut neckline. For strong ladies during the day, who indulge in showing their vulnerability in the evening only…

Halston is back, Halston has a new creative director, Halston is supported, financed, owned by Harvey Weinstein, Tamara Mellon, Rachel Zoe, Liza Minelli… Well, Halston certainly had the spotlight on the brand for its rebirth collection. But where has its new creative director taken the most iconic American luxury fashion brand? Into the direction of a specious minimalism! Marco Zanini seemed like a good idea for the helm of Halston, being formerly Donatella Versace’s assistant, but his take on Halston must have had a too modern-oriented direction to make a statement at New York Fashion Week. By the way, do you know what “modern” really means, apart from being an idealized vision of “commercial”? A quick change in the direction of a designer who really knows haute couture and wants to interpret its techniques for the 21st century is required at Halston, or it could all soon appear only like a bad buz by a Hollywwod tycoon and fashion business pundits.

Anna Sui surpassed herself with this Fall-Winter 2008/2009 collection presented in New York. Keeping to her tenebrous purple and elaborate vision, she has pushed her 1960s’ aesthetics forward, revisited by a Gustav Klimt fan for the elaborate gleaming finishings, and  with The Beatles on the soudtrack… No matter how awkward and anachronistic the mix can read, Anna Sui has managed to make it work through the prism of her imagination, giving the looks she sent on the runway a real energy which could appeal to many contemporary chic Bohemians.

Betsey Johnson goes back to her best tradition of girly subversive in her collection presented for Fall 2008. Maxi lengths, mini lengths , her girls have them all. The important lies elsewehere here: in the bright colours, in the glittering finish, in the sexy edge, in a beret worn with style. It’s capîtal to shine and be noticed when you’re partying in a club, and that’s what Betsey Johnson does best for girls who want to have fun. There is very few season aspect in the collection: Who cares about the weather when you’re dancing the night away, the inside temperature is so much more vital!

Caroline Herrera, in her runway show presented in New York for Fall-Winter 2008/2009 , remembers her hats when she used to go hunting. Feathered, they are gracefully topping a silhouette made of a mixture of tweed and organza. British style checkered patterns on coats are the basis for very refined details in the tailoring. They are allied to beautiful prints for a strong touch of femininity. Refined hunters will no doubt chose these outfits for exclusive week-ends in Tyrol or Bayern!