PARIS, Feb 29 2008 /FR/ --- Straying away from her previous reinterpretations of Hollywood In the fifties heroines, Shimada gives her creations a gold or silver shimmer with a cutting edge in the accessories.

It is quite obvious that Japanese designer Junko Shimada has drawn her inspiration for the season from the newly digitalized version of Ridley Scott’s cult movie “Blade Runner” released at the end of last year.

The runway show inside the Melpomene room at the Paris Cole des Beaux Arts had been set up in the strangest manner. In the middle of the catwalk, among a standing audience, a huge parallelepiped had been set up, made in wrapping paper material. Tearing apart the layer of paper in front of them, each of the 20 models, impersonating the Ridley Scott’s human "replicants" reinterpreted by Junko Shimada would appear as the new delivery of female clones designed for entertainment.

Gold or silver leather are worked into elaborate skirt suits, mutton sleeve dresses, giving the collection a clear futuristic aspect. Many-coloured knitted jumper-dresses, one of the designer’s favourite pieces also pervade the collection, sometimes reinterpreted around her theme, sometimes revealing the diversity which she can achieve.

The “A la Emilio Pucci” print executed here in softer tones than the Italian designer is less convincing in its mixture of colours. An oversize knitted cardigan of gold does make a clearer statement, particularly as Lurex is included in the knit.

The shoes as elaborate as ever use several shades of shiny leather tones in each pair matching metallic red with purple for instance in a tricky high and narrow platform stiletto made of several layers of material.

Necklaces and bracelets do accessorize the looks with their exuberant richness; silver big futuristic claws accumulate themselves around the neck, and threaten or warm their potential enemies: this delicate woman can be as aggressive as the wildest big cats when required.

The collection is certainly marking a turn in the work of the Paris-established Japanese designer who has charmed a faithful clientele with her delicate and luxurious vision inspired by the 1950s. This presentation and collection might seem more tentative to some of them, with a more amateur-like aspect, for instance in the sometimes too literally inspired on the movie’s hairdos.

The only gold or silver pieces are certainly the best in the collection, but can hardly find their place a wardrobe for everyday. Exceptional as they are, they might appeal to a younger woman who is willing to shine with futuristic extravagance.

Jean Paul Cauvin