PARIS, Feb 28, 2008 /FR/ --- What is it that makes the women dressed by Barbara Bui unmistakably different? Season after season, the designer declines her precise vision: delicate and yet not chichi, refined but not classic, modern but with no gimmicks, the picture of her urban strong girl is redefining the contours of femininity for the 21st century.

The spirit of Helmut Newton was conjured up in this clean-cut black sheath with a high split walking first the runway for this fall 2008 collection, particularly when from that split emerged a leg shoed with a red shoe underlined aver the ankle by a wide leather band. Like the symbol of a dauntingly seductive woman, this first exit did set the tone for a collection which is drawing clear lines around the female body paired with a contemporary elegance… H However its qualities are also to be found elsewhere in the many-facetted treasures designed by Barbara Bui.

Never following the trends closely, the designer has proposed a personal palette of solid colours this season: dark green is everywhere, like a kind of new black. Like for instance in fringes of suede which are completely covering a short dress, giving it a rock’n roll aspect in a material of sheer luxury and in a very original colour.

The heat of natural fox fur and its shades of fawn do warm up the sombre green outfits which they are sometimes enveloping with refined warmth and softness.

Eggplant also purple plays the same part in touches on otherwise black ensembles. Often used in the shoes, the strong colour reveals the personality of its wearer by a flash of brilliant earnestness. Not really provocative it does assert a certain self-confidence which both inspires respect and adds a touch of mystery.

The accessories are, as always, particularly well defined: the chocolate brown mini-gloves only cover the fingers, their knuckles and the palms of the hand with a second skin effect that makes the arm longer and more graphic, to underline the hand only in its extremely mobile quality enhanced here with a simple wrap of coloured leather.

The same elaborate thought presided over the handbags with well thought-out proportions, cleverly mixing colours and material, elegant metallic rings, and nicely balanced architecture.

But the shoes are striking most. They have the delicacy of doll’s shoes enhanced by solid “skyscraper” heels, showing that the nostalgic girl has grown up into an adult who can make choices and knows where she is going.

The standout in the collection is a leather wrap-up dress: proportionate, resolutely feminine, strong and sexy, it comes in a chocolate brown resounding with reflections of eggplant and gives an unbelievable allure to the moving body.

This could be the secret to Barbara Bui’s looks: a vision of femininity which lets women indulge in sheer delights but only for girls who have a strong enough personality. They can then bring out something of their wearer’s soul. If you are not sure about it, we would recommend you step into a Barbara Bui shop and try these outfits: they make wonders and could reveal a secret or two about yourself!

Jean Paul Cauvin