PARIS, Jan 24, 2008 /FR/--- Alexis Mabille has shown today for the first time in the official calendar of Paris Haute Couture and is certainly making a remarked new entry on the list of Paris designers. In the previous seasons, he has presented either accessories or even static presentations of clothes, but this morning his runway show inside the Angelina tea-room really made a statement about the French designer’s style.

The bow, that’s where he has started his original research, and he seems to be sticking to his exploration adorning a full short coat in various stripes of organza from beige to a light lavender purple worn by the opening diva.

The bow is the red thread to this show which has fun mixing clothes for both sexes and for four seasons, presenting sun-pleated muslin shirt-dresses and also a many-coloured fur coat for men. Mabille likes to mix and sometimes does it with real a propos, like on this red suit for men where a line of rhinestones is creating a thin checkered pattern, or on the short flounces around the shoulder yokeon a short for boys and girls alike.

Of course, experience will make things better and time will help this 32 year old designer to brush up his design explorations, but ideas are already reaching a good level in the nice earrings re-expressing the idea of the bow in crystal drops this tiùe, in the bow-shaped handbags, creating a bourgeois allure on some short skirt bordered with three stripes of delicate organza bows.

Alexis Mabille also excels when he inlays a piece of Chantilly lace on the back of a black blouse, or when he interprets the chain in long necklaces made with rings of mink fur.

Resolutely tight pants, a colour palette chosen with much care, a contained extravagance, just enough to allow one to express her or his own personality, Alexis Mabille’s designs are hard to define in a word.

The dream-like patisserie atmosphere of the venue could help us for that purpose: the designer’s pieces might provide another sweet shameful pleasure, they are still wrapped in a very prim and proper package, allowing men and women to indulge in these delights in a very comfortable atmosphere.

The three last exits, very much inspired on some design by Gaultier, might show that there is a hope here for a more overt subversion. Let us hope we see it again soon as Alexis Mabille is certainly a new name to follow very closely.

Jean Paul Cauvin